Retail Therapy Bargain hunters will not be disappointed by Tshwane’s Magnolia Craft Flea Market    By   Nermine Rizkalla

One lazy Saturday afternoon, the first of the month, I made my way to Magnolia Dell, a city park nestled in the valley of the Walker Spruit by a lakeside in Pretoria. I had been told that this venue hosts many events worth a visit, including the ever-so-popular Magnolia Craft Flea Market. Having spent many leisurely weekends strolling through the country’s flea markets, it wasn’t hard for me to notice that this one was different.

The actual term ‘flea market’ comes from the French marche aux puces - literally, ‘market of the fleas,’ a name originally given to an open-air market in Paris. Generally, flea market brings to mind ‘cheap,’ with ragtag, secondhand goods of the sort to attract such vermin. In Magnolia, however, I discovered a different meaning, in a charming setting, unique to South Africa.

courtesy of South African Tourism Vendors draw potential customers with music

Shoppers can hone their haggling skills and more than likely find a rarity among the booths and tables. Opening late Friday evening, the Magnolia Craft Flea Market offers shoppers a brief but exclusive selection of reasonably priced items. However, late starters like me can begin their quest on the first Saturday of every month from 9 a.m. – 3 p.m.

Upon entering, I was struck by the vastness of the park and the endless rows of stalls that greeted me. With more 200 quality art and craft stalls, this seemed like the perfect place to pick up something uniquely South African.

courtesy of South African Tourism Traditional African beadwork

Amid the usual chaos of tables laden with the varying quality of secondhand goods associated with most flea markets, I was surprised to come across several stalls with products acquired directly from artisans in rural villages. Several of the vendors can tell a story about every item in their stalls. “This is a mask from Ivory Coast,” Soul, who comes from Kenya, says, pointing to a wooden face with horns. “It is used during royal ceremonies to pray for rain.”

Soul has been selling African goods for several years. His stand is packed with masks from Cote d’ Ivoire, Sierra Leone, Mali, Senegal and Congo; batik-printed bolts of cloth from Zimbabwe; Ndebele necklaces, beaded dolls, wire baskets and a variety of other indigenous objects. While you may marvel at the bold and exciting designs of the masks, carvings or textiles, just remember that the real age, usage, and authenticity of such products is never certain. Africa attracts curious tourists in search of the stereotypical sub-Saharan experience, who comb the markets for their own piece of idealized Africa. Artisans, wishing to profit from tourist preconceptions, are only too happy to supply whatever story might close the sale.

Nevertheless, I was impressed with the ‘history’ of each item and ended up buying a large hand-carved wooden mask from Kenya. The facial features of the mask were very distinctive, with sharp eyes, a slight hint of a smile and rigid cheeks decorated with two red and yellow stripes. According to Soul, this particular mask is for use in wedding ceremonies.

In any flea market, bargaining is the name of the game. Nearly all stall owners are willing to haggle over their prices. The number one rule is to bargain with a smile - Africans appreciate a smile and good humor. Soul wasn’t an easy dealer to bargain with, but in the end the fact that I came from Egypt impressed him and we reached a compromise. In this game of give and take, I emerged feeling triumphant - even more so later on when I found the exact same mask in a local store for nearly three times the price. Don’t be fooled, though; the seller is usually the winner.

Besides exquisite African curios, art and handicrafts, the Magnolia market features many contemporary items, such as beautifully painted portraits by aspiring artists. I was surprised to find several young African designers of clothes and jewelry displaying evening wear, handmade chains and earrings with gemstones found only in Africa. I was especially stunned by a pendant of a striking dark blue Tanzanite, a semiprecious stone indigenous to Tanzania. However, its price was way above my budget and I had to sadly walk away.

Fortunately, the market does not lack in traditional cheaper items, including secondhand books, candles, bead necklaces, feng shui articles, shoes, embroidered linen, ceramics, pottery and other collectibles. The place is full of bargains and everything seemed like a good buy. I returned home with many things I simply ‘had to get.’

Aside from the shopping, the Magnolia Craft Flea Market is a family-friendly outing. Kids especially enjoy the park as there is ample space for them to run around as well as candle-making and sand art tables, fun rides, and fantastic deli stalls. Personally, I couldn’t resist the mouthwatering aroma of the boerewors (a traditional spicy South African sausage made of beef or lamb). There was also a stall selling biltong - salted meat made from haunches of cows, game or ostrich. The meat is marinated in vinegar with various herbs and spices, then dried in thin strips in the sun. Many tourists find this meat quite an interesting snack to stave off the hunger pangs felt during the day. When you’re ready to sit down, there is Huckleberry’s, a popular restaurant for light meals and teas.

Usually a live band entertains customers with traditional South African instruments. I like the throaty Kudu Horn best. Accompanying the music, a troupe of youth dancers dazzled me with a fast-paced, foot-stomping performance.

Walking away at the end of the day with heavy bags and a light wallet, I watched the full red sun disappear behind a thatch of trees on the horizon. Apart from the shopping, sipping and savoring, I think I was most captivated by the magical atmosphere of a lively African flea market.  tt