Song of Assisi Food and music come together in the Italian festival of La Maggiolata    By   Ginda Simpson

On this glorious Spring afternoon, we stop outside Assisi’s ancient walls at San Damiano, a Franciscan sanctuary set in a grove of olive trees, cypresses and wildflowers. In the quiet, I hear birdsong and breathe the sweetness in the air a moment of sheer perfection. We have come here to enjoy La Maggiolata an evening of food and music in celebration of the month of May.

Compared to the centuries-old traditions and festivals of this Umbrian town, this culinary festival is relatively new. The owners of some of Assisi’s most renowned and historic restaurants have established the event to celebrate the best of the local cuisine and talent. La Maggiolata is a progressive dinner set in the little gardens and hidden cloisters of Assisi, offering abundant food, wine and entertainment.

Basilica of St. Francis

At 5:30 in the evening, we gather about 200 of us in the garden of the Church of San Vitale where we are treated to welcome aperitifs and flavorful wedges of focaccia. Here, musicians perform canto a recchia, spontaneous verses known as May songs. This tradition is slowly dying as the young have neither the time or inclination to follow in the footsteps of their fathers country folk who in times past would go from farmhouse to farmhouse singing for their supper, or in this case, fresh eggs. By morning, they would have gathered several hundred eggs, which they would then sell at market. With accordion and tambourine, our present-day musicians sing for our enjoyment. Our next stop is the olive grove of Casa Fortini. A long path lined with cypress trees leads us through this immense forest with silver-green olives glittering in the light that gilds the landscape. The tree branches frame little postcard scenes of tiled rooftops, church spires and the varied fields of the valley far below. We are in the foothills of Mount Subasio. Stretched out in front of us is a long table covered in a red-checkered cloth, groaning under the weight of delicacies to whet our appetite. This is going to be an evening of overindulgence.

We give in to the temptations of flat bread with sausage, delicate bread rolls with prosciutto or ricotta and rugola, fava beans and pecorino, fried sardines and fried sage, arancini (fried rice balls), wine and more wine. From the surrounding woods, we hear music from a bagpipe, violin, bass and accordion.

Ginda Simpson

To think that pasta with fresh asparagus waits at our next stop, an intimate garden where wisteria vines and climbing roses creep in and around the railings of a characteristic terrace overlooking Assisi. The sun is setting as we walk the cobbled streets where lighted candles guide our footsteps to the garden of San Stefano. Along the way, we pause for a brief concert by mezzosoprano Simonetta Pelacchi, singing with the accompaniment of mandolin and classical guitar. It is a moment of pure magic, and I could feast upon it without ever taking a bite of the entrées that are to follow in the garden.

Now in the full dark of night, we proceed to the garden of Sant’Andrea for sweet endings and a performance by tango dancers, whose graceful, sensuous movements delight the eye. It is nearing midnight as we approach our final destination the Basilica of St. Francis, its white façade illuminated against a blue-black sky. On the patio beneath its stone rose window, framed by the arched portals, a baby grand piano sits waiting. Despite several courses of delicious food, we hunger for one final note of pure harmony. A tenor and a soprano give voice to that wish, and for one beautiful half hour, we experience joy and peace.

Ginda Simpson The rooftops of Assisi.

La Maggiolata is a spontaneous event, tentatively planned for the 29th of May. To confirm this date and to purchase tickets to the event, visitors may contact restaurant owner Carletto Angeletti, Ristorante S. Francesco, Via S. Francesco 52, Assisi, Tel:+39 075-813-30.

Visiting Assisi

Assisi, located in the central Italian region of Umbria, is the birthplace of St. Francis, patron saint of Italy, and the second most-visited shrine after the Vatican. Pilgrims and art lovers from all over the world come to pray and view the incomparable frescoes of Cimabue and Giotto in the Basilica of St. Francis, as well as stroll among the garden’s pink and pale-gray stone buildings. Overlooking a valley of green fields and olive groves, Assisi has as a backdrop the green slopes of Mt. Subasio.

Before arriving in Assisi, it is pleasant to stop at Santa Maria degli Angeli and visit the Chapel of the Porziuncola, a small church rebuilt by St. Francis himself, which is now enshrined in a massive ornate cathedral. On the outskirts of the city, you can also visit San Damiano, the old church where the saint’s spiritual journey began. Of interest in Assisi itself are the Church of St. Clare, the Duomo, and the Roman temple of Minerva. A walk from the eastern gate to the famous basilica will take you past delightful shops, cafés, and restaurants. If you still have energy, visit the Hermitage on Mt. Subasio. For hikers, the mountain is a protected regional park and there are plenty of marked trails to follow maps are available in town.

Note: There is a strict dress code for entering the local churches: No shorts, mini-skirts or bare shoulders allowed. Also, restaurants do not stay open all afternoon, but close for siesta.